I know it can be disheartening, but you shouldn’t need to start from scratch. Your email address will not be published. Please update me with how it goes! If your nitrates are reading zero you likely have a nitrate reducing filter media, like zeolite, or perhaps your tank is really heavily planted. Thank you for the article and advice. But the product would have to significantly reduce nitrates. Unfortunately, blue-green algae is not very well understood. It grows in thin layers, that as they get thicker can be removed in slimy, smelly sheets. Thanks Ian, that’ll be my next buy if this treatment doesn’t work. Besides the 5 year old clown loaches, I have Rainbowfish, corys, a couple SAE and a few otos. Introduce it to your tank at 3ml per 10 gallons of water. I know it’s early in the process, but wanted to reach out and thank you for the highly informative article and discussion, as well as the recommendations for resolving it! Just like with anything in your tank, I’d advise you don’t eat it. It’s also considerably more expensive than Hydrogen peroxide, so I would make that the starting point. We immediately got and used UltraLife Blue-Green Slime Stain Remove as directed, took two treatments and was gone!!! Recurring blue-green algae is something that has me stumped as I have never observed it first hand, after a successful eradication. In the case of green algae: 25 to a maximum of 35 ml of the 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide per 50 liters of water. Try to spread the solution as evenly as possible, ideally add it to areas with a good current to avoid local overdosing. In fact, the saltwater variant of cyanobacteria doesn’t look blue/green at all. Yeah, that Blue Green Slime Remover is magic stuff. Algae doesn’t spread in the same manner. I can understand why it’s a conversation you don’t want to have. Those bacteria do exist but they are anaerobic and the places where they could potentially get established in a typical aquarium are limited. To perform a spot-treatment, turn off everything that generates flow within the tank, carefully spread the biocide in the desired area with a syringe, wait 15 min, then turn the flow on again. Alternatively, you could use an eye dropper or cue tip to apply the H202. Because of this, blue-green algae likes a nitrate-free environment because there is no food for these other plants that would compete with it. As we cannot totally rule out that beneficial bacteria are compromised by hydrogen peroxide we recommend adding an efficient bacteria starter after the water change to help the beneficial bacteria to repopulate your tank quickly, for example ATM Colony Freshwater or Microbe-Lift Special Blend. In the case of BGA, this is not going to work. Also, cyanobacteria are able to photosynthesize – that is, use light to create food. And unfortunately, anecdotal evidence is all we really have at the moment when it comes to battling BGA in an aquarium setting. This bacteria is believed to be over 2.3 billion years old. You shouldn’t need to remove them from your tank. Bag grows like weeds. My 150 gallon freshwater tank has suddenly fell victim to this nuisance. A week on and the plants are growing again as they’re no longer competing for nutrients and light with the blue-green. Like a rotting swamp smell. Many scientists believe that if it wasn’t for the formation of cyanobacteria, humans may not exist! (Sailor language redacted) that stuff. Good luck! Before I removed as much possible with an old tooth brush. They unrealistically expect their tank to be perfectly immaculate. Where are you located? This is the blue-green algae beginning to spread. I was over calculating to ensure I under dosed rather than over dosed. However, I can suggest two alternate treatments that I have seen work. My 12 year old pleco died (snowball type) and I began to have an algae problem….which developed into a blue green algae problem. For example, a net that is only used in that specific tank. Plants on the other hand, aren’t so lucky…. Nitrates were close to 0 (which I know now may have frustratingly caused it) at the time I didn’t know it was this bacteria. While they may look similar, some might not be affected by the blackout method. But my point was it seems to be the algae eaters who suffer most from this. Cladophora (aka Blanket Weed) Cladophora is a type of aquarium algae that’s a pain to get rid of. Also, Ultralife Blue Green Slime Remover is a powder. First, blue-green algae clumps together. In very precise and cautious amounts it may destroy the hair algae and it may also deal a blow to bacterial infections such as what might be wrong with my female. Would definitely recommend Ultra Life versus the messing around with manual removal or darkness or anything else. Recently I blacked out a tank while I was away for a weekend, since I wasn’t feeding the tank anyway, and went from a green bottom to nothing. And the supposed expert for your claim provides no scientific evidence that the claim is correct. (coral moss) or Riccia fluitans (liverwort) may be damaged in the course of this treatment. But before you get your hands wet, there is one thing you should know: This is my least favorite way of removing blue-green algae. Have started adding a nitrate fertilizer this week to try and tip things back in the plants favour. I had nothing then suddenly I had this together with black beard algae. Water changes, manually removed what we could, water levels/parameters are good. When blue-green algae first appears in your tank, it is barely noticeable – especially if it sets up residence on your plants. Ha, explaining fish purchases to the wife… I know that feeling all too well as she does the budgeting in hour home. One type smelled really bad when you lifted it out of the water. You will know when your blue-green algae is starting to die off because it dries out and turns a dark, almost black color. Have you checked your water parameters to make sure everything is as expected? I used it for its 5 days then waited another 5 days as required. I had absolutely no idea what I was up against. Blue-green algae spreads quickly. And best of all, these methods actually work. And as it does, it will cover your plants in a slimy film that is thick enough to block out light. There are several kinds of hydrogen peroxide used in the pond. Beautiful. This article helped me so much! Mix together a 12 percent concentration of hydrogen peroxide. Anecdotally, I’ve handled the stuff in my tank and thoroughly washed my hands with soap afterwards. Next, take a few blobs of what you think is blue-green algae and place them at the bottom of the bucket. I won a battle against it in 2 of my tanks using manual removal and frequent water changes. I remain optimistic that we will declare victory in this battle, and in the long run the war will be ours also with the new weaponry you have provided. Just a lot of handwaving – incorrect handwaving I might add. It’s how this hobby progresses. And before you claim that I’m doing something wrong I’m a PhD biologist and an aquarist for about 50 years. Wish I could say the product works because BGA is a real problem in my tank – it doesn’t. My gratitude to you and I am very thankful that I came across this article. In its early stages, blue-green algae just looks like a green smudge…. The next one is erythromycin. I’ll be cheering on the Ultrlife for the next few days, and hoping it kicks the BGA in the keester! This treatment method seems to work best in my experience with Blue Green Algae. I then had an outbreak of this blue green disgusting ‘algea’ a few months after I set this tank up. Thanks for sharing your thoughts and experiences! Now, there are numerous theories as to why low nitrate levels cause blue-green algae to appear. Hydrogen peroxide is the chemical compound H 2 O 2. You can use 1.5 ml of 3% hydrogen-peroxide per 1 gallon (4 liter) aquarium water. Is this an issue with the Ultralife? Lesson learned. or are there traces left behind? If it wasn’t such a pain, it would almost be beautiful, right? Thanks so much for sharing this. I was looking it up because my dog loves to swim and heard that there was a lethal amount of blue green algae in the great lakes where 100% chance she was going to jump in so I looked it up to make sure it’s was ok for here to swim not to solve a fish tank problem this problem could not be solved with this advice you should send this to all the cities on the edge of the lake’s. Food grade hydrogen peroxide, at the 12% concentration level, dosed at 3ml per 10 gallons of aquarium water, did the trick! Multiply the result with the lowest recommended dosage for the 3% solution of hydrogen peroxide (which depends on the kind of algae you are fighting). what do you think? Hi, my names Ian. Would you like to share your secret as to how you did it? The low nitrate hypothesis makes logical sense. As a basis for this treatment, we use the 3% solution for the Söchting Oxydator. Some say that the cyanobacteria is present in the local water supply, and is introduced into your tank during water changes. It is proven effective for green and blue-green algae. thanks so much. They are most likely Red cherry Shrimp, sometimes called RCS, they are one of the most common red colored shrimp around. It all sounds positive so far and I hope that the second dose knocks it on the head. Blacking out your aquarium will have mixed results. No noticable change in water parameters yet. The tank had been very stable for years….with fish living 10 years on average. Such as Algae-off, green clean, etc. This treatment may get rid of the algae but it will just reappear in time. If this is the case, you may need to pre-treat your water or find an alternate source. I have been battling this for some time and just wondering if I should remove the plants that are covered such as my moss balls that are completely covered I also have duck weed and afraid that stuff is just going to make this a real long process. Instead BGA are quite happy when they are provided nitrates to grow on – they don’t need to fix atmospheric nitrogen when they can obtain nitrates from the water. Thanks! I dosed the tank to an amount just below 2ml/gallon. I also agree that minor BGA growths wouldn’t bother many aquarists. Thanks again for your insight. Make a dosage of 2 … As a basis for this treatment, we use the 3% solution for the Söchting Oxydator. See that green glow around each of the dark clumps? Can anyone verify that I can use the ultralife bluegreen stain remover with snails and shrimp? Unfortunately, because blue-green algae isn’t actually an algae, traditional algae killers like Seachem Excel won’t do much in terms of killing it. This one is best left to the experts. That post I shared on the nitrate phenomeon is on the barr report, where many planted tank owners share their experience. I hope the green slime remover is the final nail in the coffin! It almost made me gag. I’ve been running my tank for 9 months with 3 Cory cats that actually bred to 9. I.e nil nitrates favors CBA over plants due to it’s ability to fix nitrogen. ), Aquarium water turn green? In order to get answers to basic questions all around algae in the aquarium, we recommend you read this article first. While it’s possible that it’s too late to save your moss balls, the green slime remover I mentioned in this guide will kill the blue green-algae coating all these surfaces. 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